San Miguel de Allende, a colonial city in the Mexican high desert, has topped the list of Condé Nast magazine’s “World’s Best Small Cities” several times. I have learned in my travels to “trust but verify” regarding destinations with such high accolades. Thus, I traveled to San Miguel de Allende (San Miguel) with a healthy measure of anticipation and a pinch of skepticism.
Within a few hours of arriving, I knew the hype was real. I was mesmerized by the majestic beauty of the iconic cathedral, Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, which anchors the town’s center. The image of its Neo-Gothic facade clad in pink Cantera stone against the horizon in the golden hours of the late afternoon felt like a mirage, too perfect to be real.
There are few places I am drawn to return to because, let’s face it, the world is vast, and there is so much to explore. However, I returned twice the year after my initial visit and quickly realized that San Miguel needed to be my home base between my global travels.
I now spend about six months a year in San Miguel.
Though it is my “hometown,” I still explore it daily like a curious traveler. There are so many rich layers of history, culture, art, architecture, nature, and food that my list of things to do seems endless.
Here are a few highlights based on my local experiences.
The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel
The Parroquia, a historic church built in the 17th century, is undoubtedly the grande dame of San Miguel. Situated in the city center, it is impossible to miss the architectural spender of this iconic landmark.
The Parroquia is fronted by El Jardín, a manicured city square that looks straight out of a hallmark movie at night, with its central pavilion and twinkling lights overhead nestled in low-hanging branches.
The Parroquia is far more than an astonishing physical presence in San Miguel. It is the heart and soul of the city, coming alive as the sun starts to set. Weekend evenings host opulent weddings and quinceañeras that spill out onto the front courtyard for all to admire the lavish gowns and Mexican traditions.
Visit after dinner, any night of the week, and you will often be treated to free professional music and/or dance performances. Rarely will you find any announcements in any publications about the evening’s events. But there will be a stage, chairs, lights, and anything from a four-piece jazz band to a 20-person Irish clogging display. Stay for a few minutes or a few hours. It’s always entertaining.
Walk throughout the city
San Miguel is comprised of several neighborhoods or Colonias. Centro, a UNESCO World Heritage-designated area, is the Colonia most explored by visitors as it is home to many hotels, shops, and restaurants. The UNESCO designation carries tight architectural controls, preserving the original facades and charming cobblestone streets from the 1700s.
However, the less explored Colonias bordering Centro each have their own unique beauty, some showcasing world-class street art and jaw-dropping views from above the city. Unearthing the hidden gems in these areas can be time-consuming and intimidating to visitors unfamiliar with these neighborhoods. Still, there is a great option to ensure you don’t
miss these beautiful sites.
Paynal's Cardio Art Walks offers free tours on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, starting at approximately 8:30 AM and usually lasting for two to three hours. Each walk's meeting place and destination are posted on the group Facebook page a few days before.
Enjoy all the art
San Miguel has a rich history in the arts. Since the early 1940s, when Stirling Dickinson, an artist and WWII army veteran, convinced the US Government to allow the GI Bill to be used for an art school in San Miguel, artists have flocked to the city.
Fábrica la Aurora is the is the largest art hub in San Miguel, with a collection of over twenty-five artist galleries situated in a renovated textile factory. It’s a lovely place to visit any time and should not be missed, but if you happen to be in town the first Saturday of the month, go in the evening and partake in the monthly Art Walk. Enjoy complimentary cocktails, meet the artists, and mingle with locals.
Shop for unique local items
Everyone loves a little retail therapy, and San Miguel has plenty of opportunities to find some local treasures. The Mercado de Artesanías Market features local craftsmen’s products, from hand-embroidered tablecloths to hand-crafted pottery. The market spans several blocks and is a great place to pick up small gifts for friends and family back home.
But the shopping scene goes well beyond the usual tourist fare. Several boutique clothing stores have truly special items.
Suki Palomina Hat Atelier offers stylish hats for both men and women, merging Mexican design, local materials, and a handmade approach with a modern, urban flair. Suki's fine craftsmanship has been internationally recognized in Vogue Magazine. Located at Calle Murillo 3.
Claudia Bo's distinctive clothing style uses traditional Mexican-style fabrics that are updated with modern elegance. Her classic skirts and blouses are suitable for any evening out in town. If your travels bring you to Mexico for Diá de Los Muertos, plan ahead to purchase an incredible custom-designed piece for the event. Her hand-made jewelry is also a perfect compliant to her exquisite clothing designs. Located at Insurgentes 118.
Listen to Live Music
They say live music is good for the soul. If true, your soul will be very happy and healthy in San Miguel. Live music is available at several venues every night of the week. A great place to check out all the music options is San Miguel Live! You will find an extensive list of musicians organized by date, venue, time, and genres, including pop, rock, jazz, blues, and traditional Mexican. One of my favorite venues is the rooftop at the Rain dog Lounge, San Miguel’s first dedicated music venue.
Eat and Drink
U.S. friends often ask me if I get tired of eating “Mexican” food, which I assume is supposed to invoke visions of tacos, beans, rice, and margaritas. Though I do occasionally enjoy these foods, the culinary scene in San Miguel is bursting with creative cuisines from throughout the world.
There are hundreds of restaurants in San Miguel, ranging from taco stands to fine dining. You will likely enjoy any restaurant you wander into, but there are a few standouts for me.
Atrio, a fine-dining restaurant in the heart of Centro, is my go-to for a special occasion dinner. Located next to the Parroquia, the view from its rooftop terrace is amazing, and the food and service are always top-notch. I’m a big fan of their house specialty, Huacho Atrio, a crisping fried red snapper in spicy oriental chili sauce.
La Azotea is another rooftop restaurant and bar in Centro, is a must to try what I think is the best taco in the town. The “jicama” taco features delicately fried shrimp with a tasty chipotle sauce topped with fried leeks wrapped in thinly sliced jicama for the shell. It sounds a little strange initially, but you won’t be disappointed.
Tunki Rooftop by Handshake, the classy rooftop bar at the Casa Sierra Nevada Hotel, is at the top of my cocktailing list. The cocktail menu was created in partnership with Handshake Speakeasy from Mexico City, voted as one of the top 5 bars in the world. The cocktails are delicious, and the view is lovely. Reservations are required.
And so much more!
These highlights just barely scratch the surface of all San Miguel has to offer.
There are countless educational opportunities, community events, vineyards, and so much more.
Perhaps the best thing to do in San Miguel, however, requires no preparation or forethought. Simply sit at an outdoor table at one of the cafes near the Parroquia and watch life unfold.
* In 2024, San Miguel de Allende was voted the #1 City in the World by Travel & Leisure readers.
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